I was just wandering if weight pulling competitions are a good source of excercise for an energetic pit.

I saw this done on one of Cesar's shows. It fascinated and amazed me. I started doing it for my dog.(I'm a first time dog owner BTW) My dog must sit for some time and then is not allowed to eat until I say so. It was pretty easy to get my dog into this habit -- only a couple of days of correction before my pooch wouldn't move a muscle to the dinner bowl 'til I say so.

This was a great reminder about my dog's behavior. Even my tame and very laid back 10 year-old mutt, Maggie, enjoys her meal much more when I command her to sit and do a famous Cesar "Shhhh" and stare at her for a couple of moments and then allow her to eat. Her gratitude is obvious when I give her the opportunity to "work".

Chantel

I work at a veterinary clinic, and the most reccomended dog food is hills science diet, which is very good. It has a good amount of the right vitamins and/or nutritional values. most generic dog foods are fine, but they can have alot of bad stuff in them too, they are like eating Mc Donalds every day. Science Diet has been good for my dog, and my cats. They are all active and well balanced. justa reccomendation, hope it helps.=^_^=

Chantel first find out what kind of dog food the sog is eating and keep him/her on that kind of dog food. I feed my dog pediagree how ever you spell it. Hope that helps Chantel Danessa :)

We will be adopting a 4 y.o. Male Neutered pembroke welsh corgi this weekend. We have talked to the owners who are giving him up as the dog tends to show aggression to another older female corgi. They decided to give him up as people in their household have been too "busy" to take him for walks and exercise. By all descriptions the dog himself is very friendly and good with kids too. We plan on follwoing cesar's tips and not let him become dominant with us or other people... I am concerned that he may have top dog traits and wants more food, more attention than the next dog. He will be our only dog, but I am wondering how we'll redirect his energy when encountering strangers or other dogs. Any helpful advice will be appreciated.

Scoob,

If you have ever seen episode #3 of Dog Whisperer, Cesar helps the dog Buddy. I recamend you see it. It would really help.

~Chantel

Hey lori, I think it might be an issue of dominance. It might be hard but I would not play with your pitt on her terms anymore no if ands or buts. I have 7mth amstaff. He is a handfull, but I find that if I go by my rules and forget about his wants,we get along better. Give it a shot.nic

Scoob,

Remember, this is just a suggestion, but right from the start, you must show him who the dominant one is(you). You seem to clearly understand that already, and that is good. Being the leader of the pack means pretty much, most, or all aspects of the dogs life, you are in charge of. This can be hard because it is easy to give your dog lots of attention and pats on the head when he decides that he wants it by coming to you and forcing your hand on his head, but it is best to move your hand away and dont make eye contact and just ingnore him. this does not hurt his feelings or make him sad, it is teaching respect. call him to you and tell him to sit when you want to give affection on your terms, not his. Get into a habit of a feeding schedule, and when that time comes, have him sit or lay down and stay, until you place the food in his bowl and then tell him to come here. also, corgis can easily become overweight, so a regular feeding schedule, as opposed to leaving a big bowl of food out all day, is especially good for maintaining a healthy weight. also, corgis are a herding breed, so they are fairly energetic, but you may already have known that. Remember that 4 years is still young, and there is still another 10 to 12 years in which he can be socialized. it is never to late to try training classes, doggie day care, ect. take him for walks in the park, and practice ceasars technique, which is keep him at your side, look forward, and relax when approaching another dog, as if it is not even there, and when you feel him try to pull on the leash, just correct him with a quick tug pulling him back next to, or slightly behind you, and a 'shh' or'leave it' works too. repeat this as often as needed and be patient. he will need to learn that there are rules and boundaries. keep this one thing in mind, and you and your dog will be happy and content. Dogs are always learning. Commit to constant training and patience and it will surely pay off.

My dog is generally anxious, high energy and can also be aggressive and charge other dogs. He is a 45 lb, 7 year old shepard mix. He runs for an hour every day off the leash, half hour walk during the day and at least one other walk in the evening. He is a focused and determined ball retriever, plays with his toys and likes pull toy games with other dogs and humans. He's responsive to training of standard commands, sit, stay, lay down, paw, speak, etc. He is not at ALL food aggressive and doesn't eat unless I'm home and in a relaxed position (often times when I go to bed). He often skips food for a day at a time.

For the past 5 months, he's been on 50 mg of colmicalm once a day. I want to get him to a point where he can be off the leash and not charge other dogs, and more comfortable when left alone. Being that he doesn't respond much to food rewards I have used treating him (or distracting him from another dog) with giving or throwing a ball. A ball is not 100% effective either. Any other ideas? I'd be grateful!

Thanks
Chris

Dear Cesar,

I love your show. My trainers also highly recommend you. If possible, I'd like some advice about enrichment. I have 4 dogs, one of which is an Italian greyhound/border terrier mix.

She combines the extreme sensitivity of a greyhound w/ the intelligence and mischieviousness of the border terrer -- and the predatory instincts of both. Yet she doesn't seem to know how to play w/ anything other than humans. Other than chasing the occasional rabbit that wanders into the yard, she doesn't mix w/ the other dogs, but focuses on me. Toys and the other dogs are completely uninteresting to her. I need to provide her w/ something other than me of interest. She likes walks, but tires after 1/2 a mile.

Do you have any suggestions.

Many thanks!

Ann, San Diego

Chantel,
As you can see there are as many different preferences for dog foods as their are owners. Years ago I had the opportunity to attend a lecture on feeding by a extremly informed vet. His recommendation has been true blue since I applied it..... He said you can tell the quality of the digestive ability of the food you are feeding by what is expelled. He said you must look for firm dark stool, which he assured us is a sign of well balanced nutrition that is being absorbed by the body, with very little by product if any . I have worked with dogs for many years in hunting competitions, which require immense endurance and performance. Our dogs coats are healthy, shiny, skin is well hydrated, and they are in tip top shape, no overfeeding either,,, no scraps at all...slight rib outline and backbone for peak physical condition is what he recommended. I feed Eukanuba , always have, and have had incredibly healthy competitors.. Hope this helped. I feed dry food only, with occasional supplements , of oatmeal or egg...Light colored stool that is loose is a sign that few nutrients are being absorbed, good luck with your choice..... We love Cesar too!

About dog food.
I am not a dog specialist by any means. I read above that the smaller the stools, the more nutrients your dogs get. I might be wrong, but in the beginning of the 20th century people developed taste for white bread and refined products. With little fiber humans suffered from constipation and increased risks of gastrointestinal cancers. It wasn't till later in that century that fiber became important, and wasn't treated as something bad that needs to be avoided. Now more fiber means bigger stools, but not less absorption. It is thought to be healthy for humans.
I know dogs are no humans, but if something goes through my dogs gut undigested I can certainly see it.
I feed my dogs mostly organic food, and I do change it once in a while. They just get bored with one kind. I haven't noticed any problems with switching foods, but they all are high quality premium dog brands (except Iams, as I don't support the company who abuses dogs to test their food). One thing I would not feed them is colorful food. Why should they eat all the unnecessary chemicals?

Sean,

I would like more info on eating raw. I have read some about it, pro and cons. It is the closest to the nature. What kind of raw food are you feeding your dogs? What kind of meat? Veggies?
I am a vegetarian, so handling meat grosses me out, but I might try occasionally.

Ewa,

I am in Taiwan, and I get chicken backs, necks, heads, and spines from a restaurant supplier for about US$0.50 per kilo, and minced beef and lamb for US$1.00 a kilo. They get the chicken five or six days a week, with raw eggs, garlic, and fish oil and vitamin E as a supplement. The other days they get whole fish, the minced beef and lamb, lamb chops, duck, beef, pork ribs, whatever I can get for variety. I also sprinkle dried alfalfa or kelp powder on the meat.

Every two weeks they fast one day and get blended green leafy vegetables and whatever other fruit and veg I have left over. Their teeth are perfect, they have no skin problems or bad breath, they smell great, and they are in great condition. The only time they go to the vet is when Chocolate, my clumsiest, cuts his foot; for heartworm testing; or when my now deceased oldest had to go in for tests. The vets always tell me how remarkably healthy they are and ask what I feed them, then explain how unhealthy it is after I tell them. LOL.

Each to his own, I say, and I am very, very happy with the results of feeding raw. I know others prefer cooked, and I say Why not? if that's what you prefer. Certainly, the oldest dog in the world lived to be 34 and died in 1939, many years before dog food, and was fed on table scraps. The oldest living dogs are about 29 and they both live on raw meat and table scraps from the farms they live on - none of these dogs ate any kind of 'dog food'. The two cats we had growing up were fed all the best 'cat foods', both lived to be 17, and both died of kidney disease and cancer and also lost most of their teeth; my mother's cat when she ws a child lived to be 22, never went to the vet, and was only fed table scraps.

It's very easy to feed, and, yes, I was scared to try it, but I have never looked back since switching. We get many very thin or diseased rescues, from kittens and pups to poodles to Labradors and huskies, and they all make rapid progress on raw. They may have done so on kibble for all I know, but what I feed obviously isn't detrimental to their health and I have no reason to switch. My cat eats the same, and can chew through a whole chicken wing or leg on her own. She survived a snake bite, so I know she's doing well on the diet. ;-)

Also, with up to eleven dogs and six cats in my home at a time, I am very happy with the 'end product' of feeding a raw diet rich in bones, as the clean up is easy and the smell greatly reduced.

I'm not here to debate raw over kibble, as I know it's like arguing religion, but you asked, so here you have it! Like I said, it's a matter of choice; many people are happy with kibble, and their dogs do fine on it. I just have no reason to feed it and am very happy with the benefits of feeding raw.

Good luck with it, Ewa. Feel free to e-mail me if you need any more info: sean@animalstaiwan.org . Whatever you decide, it's great that you are being proactive about your furkids' diet. :-)

Have a great week!

Sean

Ewa, I would be very interested in any information you can pass along to me supporting your belief that Iams is a company that abuses dogs to test it's food. Since I have not heard this and feed Eukanuba, would like to know where I can read these facts about the company... Thank you,,Also there was a study done by Harvard about raw carrots given to dogs to prevent cataracts, it works,, one a day , they think it's candy,, they love them, I have 3 labs, started as puppies with raw carrots,.... Michelle

Michelle,

Since this is not the place to discuss such topics, you can email me at: ewawys@hotmail.com
And yes, I give my dogs carrots (one of them likes them, the other two don't).
Sean, thank you very much for so much valuable information.

Patricia,

I'm not an expert by any means, so if anyone else disagrees with me here, go with what they say! ;-)

I had a young female with the same problem, and of course we made it worse by comforting her every time she became submissive. What we learned to do was to make sure that she learned basic obedience, and then teach her to sit at times she would normally pee herself. The reason, as I understood it, was that she wants to please you and show you that she is submissive to you, and urination is how she does it. By ignoring the submissive urination (obviously no punishments) and showing her that sitting pleases you, she will learn to sit instead of pee herself.

With our dog, she would always pee herself when we came home, so we started there. On opening the door, we would immediately make her sit, then praise her mildly or give her a treat for doing so (don't excite her too much). Then we would take her straight out for a pee, which we didn't have to do once we could see she was relaxed on our return.

It worked for us - in fact incredibly well - but there may be others here who can offer you a better suggestion.

Good luck and don't give up! The want-to-give-up feeling is merely a test to see if you are ready for success. ;-) Our dog was absolutely the worst-behaved puppy, with every bad behaviour listed (all our fault, I know now), but she is now the most well-behaved, obedient, loving, grateful dog I have ever met.

Happy Year of the Dog!

Sean
animalstaiwan.org

We wean all ours onto raw meaty bones and blended veg as soon as they're old enough. We chop up chicken wings, necks, etc, into little pieces which get bigger as the pups grow. Very healthy, and the pups love it.

I'm wondering about the meaty raw bones....I was once told that all bones are bad for dogs because of splintering. I have a boy who showed up on my property 2 years ago and wants nothing to do with any type bone and a girl I adopted from a local shelter that wouldn't be able to live without her big knucle bones.

The male is about 120 lbs and brings home all kinds of things, guessing he has retriever in him...lol. Medium double coat and a great joy. I can't keep him tied out (I can't afford to fence in the property yet, little over two acres) because he escapes from evertything. I wouldn't worry too much but he races the big trucks that pass the property. I would appreciate any help on curtailing this behavior.

Hi, Patricia.

I'm not sure what else to tell you other than keep trying - it hasn't been long. Ignore the dog as much as possible, perhaps? He obviously pees himself anytime you pay him any attention, so give the attention slowly and gradually, maybe. That's what we did.

We had one dog who would pee whenever she was called or told to do something, which gave us some precarious moments when she was on the bed! As I recall, we'd leave the room and call her from far away, which worked - she would get off the bed and come to us without peeing.

Maybe someone who's more of an expert can chip in.

Chinatiger, yes, we've all been told about the 'danger' of bones. The truth is that cooked bones splinter, not raw ones. But some experts suggest not giving load-bearing bones from large, old animals. So the toughest bone I give mine is a lamb shank - no pork knuckles or big beef bones. I do give pork ribs, though.

Bones are essential for good health. We started with chicken necks, then wings, then legs, then backs - building up from cartilage to stronger bones; you may want to try the same.

I should point out, as does Billinghurst, that there are risks to feeding bones just as there are risks feeding kibble, but they are negligible. Having said that, we've been feeding raw for three years now, to more than eighty dogs or cats, and never had even a hint of a problem.

Good luck!

Sean

Oh, Another thing: Lila will never eat if I'm not sitting in the room somewhere, so I'm always sitting next to or near her while she is eating. How do I correct this?
Currently, I am feeding my dogs Benefull, is that a good choice for my dogs ?

Thanks so much,
Cara

You preach understanding pack mentality. How do you train and control the one in the pack who infrequently has instances of bad behavior, aggression specifically.

I have to chime in on the food opinions here. I really don't mean to offend anyone who thinks that the store/pet store premium brands are good stuff, but some research needs to be done. Whoever suggested going to Wholedogjournal.com, good suggestion. They can tell you some good foods to try. Please, please, please don't feed your dogs these high dollar, professed to be good for your dog foods. I know you think you are feeding your dog the best of the best, but there's a whole other world of dog foods out there. Science Diet and Iams are chock full of preservatives, fillers and chemicals that cause cancers, behavioral problems and allergies. Switch to a super premium food such as Wellness, Innova, California Naturals, etc. And supplement your dogs diet with vegetables. A dogs main diet in the wild is actually not meat, believe it or not. We feed our dogs a few pieces of frozen broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, etc. with their dry diets of Wellness. But do some research on what vegetables are unacceptable. Dogs cannot properly digest some things, such as onions, avocados or macadamia nuts.

I have two rescue dogs (1 female, 1 male) very close in age. My male was emaciated when I rescued him. He has been with me for almost 2 years, but has serious issues regarding food and treats (sometimes toys). He becomes food aggressive towards other dogs, often attacking them. He sometimes does this with new toys as well. I am the only human who can remove an item he is acting aggressive over once the aggression begins without him trying to bite me. When my husband attempts to do this, he lunges at my husband's hand and tries to bite him. I make my dogs sit calmly before I feed them. I work at home, so my dogs get plenty of exercise and attention. I correct his bad behavior when it occurs, but it does not seem to go away ever. This behavior is concerning to me. Any suggestions

why dont you get a page and it would have on it all of the dog breads you can get it will be good and every one will like it more. and also put all the breads of other animals you can get on this page to. thank you

I have a 1 1/2 yr old pit she loves to be pet and get her belly rubbed. she is energetic and loving but when i try to get her out the back yard and let her run around she will play and be real good, but if i put a leash on her she drops to the floor and will lay there and wont walk, if i raise my voice and call her to come she just lays there i can get her to run and walk with me but when i put a leash on she drops so i have to pick her up and carry her to the back yard, can any one help me??

My dog has to live with another dog, but ever since she was a puppy, she attacks and growls at other dogs and sometimes strangers walking in front of our house. How can I get her to get along with other dogs and all people?

I was wondering how you deal with dogs at mealtime. I understand the work-for-food concept and the fact that they should be calm submissive before allowing them to eat. HOWEVER, what happens once they start eating? In the case of my two rottweilers, I can walk up and take their food away with no problems; however, at times if I try and pet the male too long, he becomes aggressive. Now it begs the question, should I just leave them alone during meal time, especially if they've done everything they need to do prior to that (exercise, discipline, etc.)? Or should I be able to interrupt their meal with petting without any repurcussions? Thanks for your thoughts.

Vic,

You are spoiling Flash at a young age and it could soon cause bigger problems as he gets older... Here is what I recommend... Stick with dry food only, can food has too much junk in it and it also causes loose and runny stool. I walk my dogs at least twice a day for a minimum of 45 minutes, and after the walk I feed them a hour later. Wear Flash out on his walks, no water until he is completely cooled down. When you give him his food an hour later, he should be starving and eat his food when you leave. If not, leave it alone, he won't starve himself, when he gets hungry enough, he will eat... Flash could also have seperation anxiety-- when you leave to go to work, does he tear the home up or is he kenneled? How does he react when you are gone? Look at the back of the dog food, depending on his weight at full grown is how much you will feed him... For instance, my adult rottie weighs a 110lbs at 6 years, Nutro says to feed him 6-8 cups, I feed him 3 cups twice daily to equal 6 cups. Hope this helps!!

Ed,

What does your male rottie do when you walk up to him and his food while he's eating? Does he growl or stop eating and lower his head over the middle of the food bowl with his ears back? If so, he is food aggressive and you may not think so of the latter( head lowered over the food)but what you may or may not know is when he does that, he is challenging you over the food, if you back off, your male just won the challenge he issued you...(This could also cause problems in other areas) On either/or whether he growls or lowers is head when you come back while he's eating, walk up to his shoulder, place you knee into his shoulder and give a quick nudge, when I say nudge, I mean nudge, not kicking or kneeing him(or you can use your hand and do the "bite") and either say, "shht" or "back". I like my dogs to be at a sit and 4 to 6 feet away when I do the reclaim. While I would not recommend petting while he's eating, I also wouldn't let him get away with him growling at you that could quickly become a bigger issue in other areas of ya'll life... I too have a male rottie, and while he is Mr calm, cool, and collected, he does every once in awhile wake up on the wrong side of the floor, and I will have to hand "bite" him to remind him that's not allowed. I hope this helps, and if you have other questions, let me know... I'm very outspoken on rottweiler ownership and very willing to help fellow rottie owners since there is such a universal fear of them and I had to put Baxter through what I called "Baxter Boot Camp" since he had many, many issues when I rescued him and I was determined for us to be able to co-exist and also do many things together without fear of him "freaking out"-- he was the ultimate man-hater, and he now has alot of guy friends... lol... Good Luck!!

Is Vit. C good for huskies?

My pitbull anit very muscular hes quite skinny waht should i do ihave no money

Beth,

Maybe she's a vegetarian? lol... JK... I was told by my vet and former boss, that when a dog eats grass the dog has a upset stomach, and that whatever is in the grass will cause them to spit up and feel relief... Baxter, my rottweiler, he use to eat grass in the morning when it's wet, but then soon after he would spit up... So, in the mornings he would stay on lease so I could control his mouth. Use the leash to your advantage, your the boss lady and your dog needs to look at you as leader. Let her place her head where it is natural for her on her walk but the minute her head starts going to the ground, do a quick jerk/release. You may need to "shhht" or you can say "no" since that is a unwanted behavior. When I first got Baxter, he looked more like a hound dog with his nose plastered to the ground, zig zagging all over the place. I haven't been around a basenji, so I don't know if they are dominant or submissive by nature, but then again every dog is different. Just realize it will take constant work, sometimes she will wake up and forget and you will have to remind her. Now, on to your food issue, I just don't understand why she wouldn't want to eat... First of all, I do recommend feeding her AFTER the morning walk, because all the motion of the walking after eating could be why she is soo adament about eating the grass-- she has a upset stomach... Just like people when they eat, and then start playing, they can get a stomach ache... She could also be associating eating her dog food with getting a stomach ache, which is why she doesn't like to eat... If you haven't done so already, take her to your vet and have him check her insides, maybe by xray or feeling her up to make sure nothing has gotten turned around. Both my dogs eat like clockwork, there certain amount twice daily, clean it up, and when they don't and it goes for a day or two, I take them to the vet because it is soo uncommon for them not to finish it up... You know, it could also be the dog food, she just may not like it... Baxter hates Pro Plan and wouldn't eat it, so I switched him to Nutro, and he loves it... Cleans his bowl out... Isabella, my mastiff, well, she'll eat anything, never have known her to be a picky eater, she's on Pro Plan because it keeps her stool hard. Has she always not been a food eater? Try to think back, maybe something happened one day, and that could be the problem now... Maybe try raw chicken, livers, kidneys, this is starting to become the "thing" to do with your pets because it's how their ancestors ate... There was a study saying the pets that were on the raw diet lived longer and "happier" lives. Personally, my dogs loved it, I didn't because their farts were out of this world... The smell was AWEFUL... lol... I lasted a week, but this could get her eating, so it could be worth a try... Let me know if this helps!! Linnea

Nice story Linnea! You did great!

About eating grass, my dogs eat it too, and they don't vomit or have upset stomachs. They will not eat any kind of grass, just some kinds. My understanding is that they need vitamins and nutrients found only in fresh greens (no matter what kind of dry dog food, it lacks enzymes and fresh nutrients). I let my dogs eat as much as they want, it never hurt them. We humans sometimes crave fresh salad and we go for it. Most of the time the dogs have only grass available as greens. I make sure to give mine fresh parsley, spinach and some other veggies. And they eat it.

Beth,

It sounds like she's not gaining weight but she's not losing any weight either-- is that true? Does she exercise or play alot? I suppose it's possible if she is a high energy dog that she is working herself out which is counter acting on the amount of food she is getting-- basically not gaining or losing any weight... Never heard of the egg deal, could be one of those ol wives tale... smile... Ask you vet if a boiled egg will hurt her, if not, give it a try, if it works, stick with it. Also, check the Petsmart or Petco website, or even better if there is a store close to you, if I remember correctly, they have chewable pills to boost a dogs immune system so this way since she is eating the Wellness Formula alot better, this may help her eating and you won't have to hand feed her. Beth, I don't want to worry you, but something about your response back to me got me immediately thinking "kidneys". Just keep it in the back of your mind... The first things to notice are, a dog will act the same, whether playful, hyper, laid-back, what-not and the dog will also eat pretty normal(until it is to far progressed, then the dog will basically quit eating) but the dog will continue to steadily drop weight. If you ever notice this or are noticing this, it's a good chance of kidney failure. It could be when you said fast metabolism, it was like a flash back of mom telling me the same thing about her redbone, Ol' Dan, when I got back from Qatar and was on my 2 week leave. I took him to the vet the next day, and he was in advanced stage of kidney failure. I sincerely don't want to worry you, but just wanted to inform you "in case". I hope this post helps and if you have further questions, you know how to get in touch... Please try not to worry, you are being a good mom and I hope she starts eating better... Linnea

Responding to Tianna's response about dog food and Science Diet. Please read the label and check out all the ingredients that are not good for dogs, especially CORN.
Vet's only use Hill's goods because of their speciality foods and even those have products that are not good.
The more natural foods with no by-products and real meats and veg. are the best for any dog; Wellness, Calif. Nat, Versus, are just a few.
Thanks, I know your responce was written weeks ago, but I just read it.

I haven't tried the run/walk before feeding but I'll try that tomorrow as it seems I have tried everything else.

I have a border collie that is very headstrong. The dog is not even a year old yet but is already subject to more rules than my last border had in his lifetime and one who seemed to grasp the concept of who was in control.

My current puppy (he is less than a year) attacks his food bowl and then gets aggessive after he eats. After telling him "NO" a couple of times today when he started growling and barking, I just walked out of the room and left him there. He seemed to calm down immediately after that but I do want this behaviour cured permanantly.

I've already had one day when I inadvertently touched him while eating and I met CUJO! I all other respects this dog listens and obeys. This was not a rescue dog.

Follow up to my last post...
After nearly being bitten trying to clip nails, the dog had a change of mind today. I managed to do an entire paw without the backlash of teeth even being shown (I quit while I was ahead)

Such a simple adjustment in my routine turned this dog around. It is truly amazing.

Now I can start the tracking training! Such fun!

Robin,

I noticed in one of your previous posts you said your dog would become aggressive AFTER eating. What would provoke this? (i.e. were you petting him, just standing there, etc?)

I have a rottiewiller,10yrs old never nutered.he loves female dogs and nuetered males,he absolutly hates unfixed male dogs.I live in a apartment building that holds three apartments.A new tenant moved in yesterday with a pit bull,unnueueterd!!I was just wealking out my door to take my dog for a walk when they're dog [no collor, no leash]came from???and jumped on my dogs back,fortunatlly my dog was leashed and harnessed so i got control of his part of the situation and got him in the house.Unfortunatly the other dog was not contained by any thing and its owner had no control over it.My fears are that this will happen again and there will be a bloodbath.Is there a way to get two dominating dogs to live in the same building in 'harmony'.i will try to work the other owners to do walks and outdoor dog stuff at different time but in the event the dogs meet again,i could use some suggestions.I dont see getting them close enough to 'show there bellys as being an option due to the lack of control the pittys owners have on there dog.I love dogs and have no grif in trying to make the best of the situation,unfortunatly the new tenants are not willing to talk to me,[they fear they will have to get rid of there dog or just dont like me,i dont know]so in the meantime i am afraid to leave my place in case we run into another conflict with the dogs.

Hi
I am trying to find out if it is okay to feed dogs (small dogs) cokked pork rib bones, does anyone know?
Thank you

Hi,
i have a 9 month old beagle who is on Burges supa greyhound food just now , just got him last week and ive not changed his food to IAMS or Hills yet but will do at the end of the month, but i am just unsure how much i should be feeding him, he is currently being fed about 90grams of food twice a day. is that tooo much or not enough???
thanks

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Hi there,
I hope someone can help us. We have four JRT's...three female, one male (the mum and three of her litter). Every once in a while, out of nowhere, the tiny female attacks her sister. I mean literally out of the blue! It is rather frightening and it doesn't happen on any regular basis. We are talking blood being drawn, not letting go, real aggression here. We have learned to throw a blanket over them to separate them whenever this happens which so far is working. Is it just a female JRT dog thing?
The other problem is the male. He growls whenever we pet or cuddle him, he does not like being disciplined, marks everything, yet I beive he realizes we are in charge. Does anyone have any ideas on these two subjects?
PS All are fixed, the mum is 8 the others 6.
Thanks for any help you can give me!

Karen, I do have some advice for you, the smaller member of the litter is probably trying to show the bigger one that she is the dominant female, you should start disciplining her for these actions, or keep them seperated. As for the male you should start disiplining him whenever he growls or tries to bight, but do not do anything to harsh. Maybe just a little slap to the nose.

SSubmissive Urination I have never seen Cesar Milan work on dogs with submissive urination, but my little daushund has a problem, which is getting better. I have taught her to stand, by putting a harness on her and lifting her up as I put it on. She can't pee, like this as she prefers to roll over on her back and tinkle. It seems to be working. It seems that if you get upset, by it and who wouldn't it begins to get better. I have waited till dog is calm and worked outside and had her around lots of strangers and its really getting better. Don't give up? It really is up to us to control ourselves, to make the dogs learn to be less fearful. Many times, I put her in position, where I know that she is afraid, so that I can show her, that I will protect her. I would like anyones advice on getting her to let people play with her ears. She had a severe infection and was treated by vet and know is skidish. Most of the time I find using vienna sausages and cheese in my mouth, is so alluring that she is allowing clipping etc. Its just strangers. Ideas welcome. I have had dogs for years and started out watching all the Dog Whisper shows and have had great results with this little dog.
I hope you keep at it and have patience. Any ideas are welcome on the ear thing. =

Jennifer, if you read the Blog Guidelines, you will notice that it does not state that one has to wait until one question is answered before posting another. I'm sure that you are new to the internet blogs and bulletin boards so you may not understand how threads work. When you did post your question, I'm sure you saw the statement that each question could not be answered individually. There is no quarantee that ANY of these questions will be answered at all. You post a question and maybe someone will respond and maybe they won't, but you can't expect everyone else to just sit around and wait to see if someone shows interest in your question. It just doesn't work that way. So, show some patience and some willingness to share the space.

So... Jennifer.. that nasty attitude of yours.. how's that working for you? I can see how many people are just rushing to answer your question. You've probably scared everyone away. Maybe YOU need the aggression training.

Can anyone tell me the best way to train our adopted 1+ yr old male Pembroke Welsh Corgi not to bark at so many things, or at least how to make him stop barking? I've been told that I'll just have to bring him indoors when the lawn mower is in use because it's the noise iteslf that's upsetting him and hurts his ears, so I will always have to take him inside to mow the lawn. Also he barks at my daughter's battery powered quad and usually the car or other noisy things. I've had other dogs that either don't care about these things or they might run and hide from a noise like that, but he barks until you stop. I don't want him to suffer. Is there anyway a dog can get use to these events?
Also, he likes to mouth us when we pet him. He clearly wants our petting and usually assumes the postion he likes most, yet he gets too happy about it and mouths our hands and then we have to stop petting him and say "No". What's the best way to get him to stop this so we can all enjoy petting him? Well, thanks SO much for any help with this. This is our first Corgi and we've heard they can be rather independant thinkers. Cutiest dog I've ever known though!

Hey, I think Jennifer has a vaild point. Give her some space! She obviously needs some help: especially with her use of contractions (you're=you are) vs. possessive pronouns (your) and spelling common English words like separated and management. Any advice on how to use commas and capital letters would help, too! Thanks!

I have heard that corn is bad, however, I am a licenced vet tech since 1984 and all my dog's and cat's have been on science diet. They all lived full lives, the cat's to 17 and the dogs to full live expectancy. I have had mixed and pure breds - Sheperd's , chi's etc. Therefore, I have had experience which rules out any information on corn. I disagree with those who say Hill's is bad. I have also had one dog on eagle brand and organic food. It is a siberian and this dog does great on it. I would not however, ever use anything else for any other type of cat or dog. Any premium brand would be a great diet. I just prefer Hill's. I hope this helps those on diets.

I have a question. Has anyone ever had a dog which constantly wants to eat. Is food aggressive and vomit's bile or food and its eat own and then it stays down. The stools and activity are normal. The vet says not worry about it -the dog is a 4 month old sibe and it makes it have bad breath. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Lorri, thank you so much for answering my question! I will try the advice you gave me! Thanks again! Jennifer

Myself and my girlfriend have a 3 year old beagle who is great and she is very well behaved. However she is submissive, and really doesn't want to play "fetch", or "tug" and we have tried many times. She plays with her toys and scatters them around the house, but drops them if we come near her, and she just isn't interested in us unless she wants us to pet her. We would like to do more with her, but she just doesn't seem to have any motivation or interest for anything else. Ideas?