Printed on August 27, 2007
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Home Sweet (New) Home
Editor's Note: Josie's segment aired on Friday, April 7.
Sometimes household change can to trigger odd behavior in a dog, like renovation work, installing a new floor, or moving to a new home. The truth is I haven't seen a case yet where the problem was created by that one single change. In nature, one traumatic experience does not create a phobia. Often, it's layers of previous experiences that build up and are then triggered by one particularly traumatic experience. But most of the time, it's a person's reaction to the experience that influences the dog's fear or neuroses.
When your dog is about to undergo a new experience that could be frightening for him, it's important to condition him in advance. If you are moving to a new home, there are several things you can do. The biggest mistake would be to just let your dog jump out of the car and expect him to acclimate to the house on his own while you unpack.
Take the dog for walks to the new house before you move in. The day of the move, give him a one-hour walk around the new neighborhood to experience the feeling of "migration." Once in the house, don't let him wander around while you are getting settled. Put him on his leash and introduce him one room at a time, letting him sniff around to familiarize himself with his new home.
If you use your calm-assertive energy to communicate to him that this is a positive experience, that's the experience he will have. It's up to us to create and maintain the leadership that keeps a dog balanced through every new situation.
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52 Comments
This struck a note with me because of the massive remodeling where we ended up going to a hotel and then over to friends for almost a month because we couldnt live in the dust any more.
Fortunately, following Cesars pack introduction guidance, the integration of Foxie and Signal with their two German Shepards went smoothly but poor Foxie became extemely dioriented. For the first time every we had some accidents as she couldnt find the doggie door there and in fact actually regressed in her disease before she pulled out.
In spite of my intentions and efforts, I am only now becoming aware of how much of a "handle it" dynamic I send/create to my dogs with so many things. In Cesar's book he talks about the best balanced dogs in the US is actually the dogs of the homeless people. Always got angry at those people for having dogs, thinking how at risk the dogs were but he is right!
It is because of the constant attention, interaction and never ending leadership role they live in every single moment!
When Cesar talks about how the dog will take the energy from you in this blog, I am reminded of the ONLY two dog fights between signal and the other male, was first right when the lady of the house was leaving to go to a heart surgery and we were all pretending everything was fine and joking -- suddenly there was this roaring fight between the dogs. Then when we were ready to move out -again we had enjoyed the experience and we were aprehensive about going back into the unfinished house, the fight broke out again.
Absolutely convinced our dogs will act out for us. Just today, our flagpole was ripped out last night and American Flag cut away/stolen. I took Signal for his bike run but I was enraged at the desicration/violation that had been done to us. (Picture a rottie snarling, growling, slobbering and lookin for a fight and that was my energy on the bike!)
For the first time in 8 months. When he saw a couple walking a dog, he actually charged forward and when I went to break his fixation, started fighting me and pulled me over for the first time ever! Took me five minutes to get him to submit which hasnt happened in over a year. Yet -
I took him around the route again, this time I had total focus on him in my calm state, even though we sailed by that same couple and dog, he didnt slow for a moment or even give them a side glance!
Absolutely clear to me this pattern of pickin up and acting out our (my) energy just like kids do!. Cesar talks about how balanced the American dogs of the homeless are in his book. I can see I have alot to learn from them!
This comment is coming in the perfect time for me. One of my dogs will have to spend three weeks at a friend's house this summer, because the kids and I will leave for vacation. My husband will stay home with the two other dogs, but because of the fights I cannot leave all three of them with him. One of the dogs would have to be locked in the kitchen for many hours, while he works. My friend has two dogs, and Ruffy knows them. So I know that everything will be fine. But... now I know I have to prepare her for that. I just thought I would drop her off.
I have two months to get her (and us, I have never left my dogs for more than 2 days, I am going to miss them terribly) ready. I know I have to act calm.
CJ,
I love the name Signal Bear. Is it because chows look like bears? (mine does, before the fur cut).
I experienced a similar situation once, when I had trouble walking my chow mix the right way. She wanted to stop and sniff every few seconds, and she would not walk beside me. Until one day she did something that made me angry (growled meanly at my husky mix, who was sitting calmly by the gate). I took her for a walk with the intentions of really showing her who the boss is. It took less then one minute for her to start walking the way I wanted. My energy was so different than usual.
Also how many times do your dogs know that you are going to take them for a walk, even before you mention anything? It seems my dogs always know, even thought the walks are in different time of the afternoon.
Hi All!
All of your comments are helping me so much!!!!!
I really have to be more aware of my emotional state before walking Roman. He is such a good and patient puppy (12 months old), and really does such an awesome job even though I am under so much stress.....I really do try to not let it get to me but there are just times it gets the best of me and while I don't show it...I can tell on our walks that he can, as he is acting a little defient when I am stressed....that is until he does something to piss me off and does something inappropriate and I turn on him to act right...boy does he shape up quick!lol
Several years ago, my previous dog suddenly, for no apparent reason, was afraid of linoleum. She didn't want to come into our kitchen, or my mother-in-law's kitchen. She'd stop at the threshold and just stand there. You could tell she wanted to come in, but wouldn't. The only thing we could think of was that maybe she had slipped once and was leery of it from then on. We didn't do anything, and after a couple weeks she finally came around. But it was weird how quickly it came on.
I just moved into a dog oriented condo community. My dogs really enjoy all the "green space". However, I hade to add more weight to the big dog'd back pack to keep him settled into our walks. He seems to be distracted by all the "pee-mail" and has begun to pull out of position to sniff around! We're on our third day here (mulitiple walks each day) and he is just now starting to settle down. He has started kicking up the grass after he pees and I don't like this sign of cockiness. I can't seem to get him to stop it. Should I let this behavior slide?
All my dogs kick the grass after going to the bathroom. We are saying that they are flushing the toilet, lol. Is that bad?
This is a great topic.
This may sound unusual, unless you've had horses...
A horse must trust your judgement when encountering new or strange objects on the trail. Since you are sitting on a horse, they can sense a lot about you through physical contact. They can actually "feel" your state of mind, or "energy". They can also "read" your body posture if you are not balanced, (ha-ha), properly, and are either leaning forward, or back.
You really do become one with a horse!
This topic reminds me of how it was my "energy", when encountering strange objects or happenings, that allowed me to take my horse through almost any situation, without much of a problem.
I also saw a Disney movie called "The Tattooed Police Horse", as a kid, which taught me to move into distractions, instead of avoid them. Two of my horses were "maniacs", fresh off the track, just like the horse in the movie, too!
I can't count how many times, the things I learned with horses, have also helped me with dogs. :)
To me, if your dog views you as the leader, they will look to you for calmness, strength, and decision making in times of stress or change. They're always watching...
Looking forward to getting Cesar's book, tomorrow. :)
Deb
Ewa,
Some trainers say it is a sign of cockiness. The trainer who works with service dogs trains all the male dogs to squat instead of lifting their leg to pee and to never kick up the grass. My dogs are just pets so I don't know if the behavior should be corrected or if I should just let Big Luke be studly!
My female Beagle kicks grass after she has relieved herself, both peeing and pooping. I had read somewhere that that is their way covering over what they have deposited on the ground. I thought that was a normal behavior.
Anyone else heard of this?
Both my dogs do the grass kicky thing too. I never gave it a second thought. It doesn't bother me and it just takes a second. Why would that behavior be construed as "cocky?"
Ewa, I mentioned this before someplace way, way, back on
the blog -- if I so much as THINK ABOUT taking my dogs
for a ride in the car, they pick up on some kind of energy
and get all excited. Conversely, when I'm getting ready
for work in the morning, they just lie down and go to sleep. In my mind, I'm not doing anything different, but
obviously I am projecting two kinds of energy to them.
This is particularly true if I am indecisive about whether
to bring them for a ride or not. If I'm putting on my
jacket, shoes, whatever, and I can't decide whether or
not to bring them, they will spring into action and get
all jazzed up like they just assume they're going with me.
I appear not to say or do anything differently than I do
when I'm getting ready for work, or for an errand or car
ride that I'm very decisive about (taking them is not an option, for example). Somehow they know the difference.
It is weird!
Wish I had stumbled upon Cesar a year ago. We bought our
dream cottage by the ocean, and part of the dream was to
be able to bring the dogs on vacation with us. Well, it
has been nothing short of a giant stress-filled nightmare.
After reading today's blog, I realize I just brought them
into the cottage and assumed they'd like it just as much
as I do. They hate it there!! The only part they like is
the beach, and we can't stay on the beach all day! Since
we haven't been there all winter, I'm going to study
Cesar's advice, and try to use it this spring like I wish
I had done last year.
I got Cesar's Way in the mail today! I read a couple
pages during my lunch break -- I couldn't put it down!
The book looks very good!
Kicking the grass is a normal behavior. I've read that it's thought the dogs are leaving more of their scent.
In any case, it's not a sign of dominance, or cockiness. Let your dog kick the grass.
What does Cesar mean by having to "condition" the dog first?
Sarah, what book were you reading? I'd like to pick it up.
"What does Cesar mean by having to “condition” the dog first? "
I'm certain he is using the word in this sense:
"To accustom (oneself or another) to; adapt: had to condition herself to long hours of hard work; conditioned the troops to marches at high altitudes. "
The idea is to allow the dog to adapt to the new area under controlled circumstances: on lead and under your control.
I would add one small addition to Cesar's advice to walk around the neighborhood: I would walk the dog away from and back to, the new area from several different directions, preferably retracing each route back in reverse of going out.
One reason dogs can get lost in new areas is because they literally can't find their way "home" and by going out-and-back you can help the dog orient themselves to their new house.
Wow Doggone thanks for that last clarification! I want to bring our Yahoo Dog Whisperer email list's attention to that because it really would help to reduce the stress and confusion that being in a city brings with all the distractions.
I have mentioned before that for years, I have had luck with my dogs getting lost (in a multitude of places) by visualizing looking into their eyes, hooking an "energy leash" around their collar and reeling them back like a fishing line. One thing though is that I had to be in the absolute center of my being in calmness - drop all emotionality and fears or it wouldnt work - but it has every time.
Ewa, no kidding you can go to my website to see and read of his rescue. I named him Signal for the Traffic Signal Shop who allowed me the time and space to rescue him (they worked around me (not easy when they were bringing in the heavy equipment at the end of the shift to the yard) and Bear because with all the Cesar technique success, he has turned into the biggest ole teddy cuddly bear that I have had since I was 8!
Also I have not heard about the kicking the grass either. Signal does not do it but Foxie, my girl with cancer used to in her stronger days (rof) and I would say that I raised her for 12 years, only using/knowing 30 % of the cesar way - boy what a difference in dogs!
My dog is weight puller. Does he have to walk the full 45 min.?
"My dog is weight puller. Does he have to walk the full 45 min.?"
What is it about walking for 45 minutes that bothers you?
Hi. I have a German Shepard that has a wierd nurosis. 6 years ago, we moved to a new home. One night, we had a fire in one of the kid's rooms. I got the fire out and no one was hurt, but the smoke detector was making a very loud noise, and our dog was very scared. Ever since then, when ever we turn the oven on, or cook on the stove, he gets very scared, and starts shaking. Then, he will run up stairs, and try to jump out the upstairs window! If he is outside, in the back yard, and we turn the oven on, he trys to break the gate down and get out of the back yard! My dog is now almost 9 years old, and it seems to be getting worse. Please help, and let me know what I can do. We all love our dog very much, and we hate to see him this way.
Joann Mealey
I just wanted to make a comment about the 3 dogs that were rescued from the New Orleans area. Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled that they were treated medically and emotionally. I did have a major concern. All three of the dogs had heartworm. This is a disease that could have easily been prevented; it also takes 1.5 years at the minimum to detect after the initial mosquito bite. I rescued an American Fox Hound from a shelter in Green Bay, WI, that was diagnosed (at vet follow-up) with heartworm. Yes, the initial treatment is "only a shot" but the pain and discomfort Jake suffered is inexcusable, not to mention the cost...well over $1000. I will never forget the look of fear and pain in his eyes when he came home. It is one of the only times he ever growled and physically snapped at me. This is something that could have been prevented. In the future, when heartworm is discussed could you give a more detailed description of this disease so that more people are aware of it. If one dog could avoid this awful disease it would be worth it! Thank you!
Good, I did something right again! Thanks Doggone/GA!
Last year, I oriented the dogs to the new neighborhood
at the ocean by going around and around and around the
same route back and forth all over. We take really long
walks there because it's flat, as opposed to where we
"really" live, which is nothing but hills! LOL One
problem is that the neighborhood, and the beach, has
a "no outlet" (dead-end) type of setup, so I have no
choice but to turn around and go back. If we walk down
to the public school, my Lab/Shepherd always wants to
keep going! I swear sometimes he is trying to take me
all the way home (like back to where we really live, I
mean! ha ha) he just wants to keep going and going and
going!!!
I have the opposite question: is 45 minutes (40 really)
ENOUGH?? Twice a day, that is. Since I now "get it" that
I have to "master" the walk (I just love that!!!) I feel
a lot better staying in the "safety zone" of our general
neighborhood. I used to walk really far, but I got
injured so many times from being pulled that I had to cool
it for a while. Now, quite frankly, I'm a little afraid
to venture forth outside of that safety zone. But, on
the other hand, since we're practicing with the goal of
mastering the walk, then it's probably ok to stay in the
safety zone until I feel more masterful.
tarraho,
You brought up a very important subject. Heartworm treatment can also kill the dog, if dead heartworms clog the arteries.
I had no idea that it takes a year and half to detect it. It means that most of the dogs in New Orleans have never been given the preventative. It doesn't speak well of their owners.
K2,
I know what you mean with "only" 45 minutes. If I have time, out walks/runs last up to hour and half. The more the better. There is nothing like early morning walk in the park with your beloved dogs. It's the best part of my day.
i don't get the program here in europe.i read all the information in this website.i posted a message with my problem in"treats and toys as trainig rewards"can someone help me ???thaks
Marie - I posted an answer for you in "Treats and Toys"
This post is excellent timing for us, as we will be moving in the next few months, and past moves have triggered separation anxiety in our dog. He's currently doing better than he ever has (he's ~12 years old, and we've had him since Oct. 2001), and I'd love to be able to avoid any setbacks with this upcoming change.
Ewa, back to post #3 (yours)and post #12 (mine) -- I
started reading Cesar's book tonight. In the book, Cesar talks about how when he was a young boy he would just THINK about having one of the farm dogs follow him in a certain direction and the dog would read his mind and do it. This has happened to me so many times. I swear I have communicated with the dogs telepathically, but I thought I was crazy -- I must have imagined it. I was amazed to see Cesar writing about this! Wow! It's all about the energy we're projecting. I'm going to try to do it deliberately now. Imagine how this can be used in a positive way, instead of by happenstance.
Evan-
Why dont you want to take your dog on long walks? It sounds as though it is a chore to you, and if your dog is pulling you, then you need to watch the dog whisperer more and no matter how strong your dog is, you need to walk with him ALOT, and you need to be stronger than him and have him walk next to you. If he tries to pass you, make him stop walking and step in front of him. Keep blocking him with your leg and say "back". It is best to have control of the head with a training collar, but if you dont have one, you still should be able to stop the dog from passing you with your legs, and you have to be pack leader to your dog. Dogs need to walk for long periods of time.
Evan,
If you need to take shorter walks try putting a back pack on the dog with some weight in it. My big dog carries about 8 pounds right now and that helps keep him settled into position during our walks. Also, because I have only 30 minutes to walk, putting some weight on him and walking fast (power walking) gives him more exercise in a shorter amount of time. He is young and very strong so for about 4 weeks I used a pinch collar. The pinch collar will not hurt the dog unless YOU MISUSE it.
K2,
I experienced similar situation too, but with tow of my dogs (I guess the third one hasn't learned to read my mind yet, lol). When we are in the horse park in the morning, we walk/run on the trails, and the dogs are off the leashes most of the time. I let them run and chase whatever they want, and that means they are not following me, they are all over the park (they get their structured walk in the afternoon, this one is to burn energy so they sleep while I go to work). But I always decide which trail we're taking. On many occasions two of my dogs will go on that exact trail that I have in mind, and wait for me. I thought it was telepathy too, but now I see it's just energy.
Hi Ya All!
Well thank goodness for today's blog. We are moving in a few weeks and now I know the best way to bring the dogs to our new place. Right now I'm spending a great deal of time packing, painting, cleaning etc... and they are looking at me like I'm crazy. We have access to the new place now, so I'm going to take them on more walks in the area and quick visits to the new place, (a few hours at a time). And then bring them back home. I've already started to walk them around our new property! I'm so glad I was doing the right thing! :) I think too, that if I introduce them to the new place for longer periods of time, then they won't be stressed the first night we all stay there because they will already be used to it and all the new smells will have already been examined.
And to change the subject:
I've had dogs that "Scratch" the ground after they go potty. And one of my dogs only does it when he hears another dog or is at the park or somewhere like that.
Some of my dogs never have done it. I've always known it to be a part of marking. And I've seen scratching used to throw dirt in the face of another dog that is not allowing privacy during a potty break. My yonger one has gotten a face full of dirt and then left my big boy alone when he relives himself. I've never felt that it was a behavior that needs to be corrected. Who wants a wet, cold nose shoved into your butt when your trying to pee or poo?
I've seen female dogs lift their leg also and male dogs that squat. So to me, it's a "dog" thing that I've never worried about.
And Thank you SJS! Pinch collars will not hurt unless you don't know how to use it correctly! As with any type of correction tool it really needs to be used properly. I've seen people that have a choke chain on the wrong side or much too small etc... OMG! Choke chains are the ones I see used incorrectly most of the time. If people are unsure of how to use a tool for a powerful breed, they really, really need to ask someone or open a book or just get the right information! And show dogs all have choke chains on them. They are just very thin. But they are chokes.
And like Cesar says...his dogs don't even need a lead! But for the rest of us that haven't been doing this all our lives, or for those of us that don't have 50 problematic dogs, a choke or a pinch can be wonderful tools.
When I have my big boy with his 130lbs of face on a walk, I wouldn't think of having him without his choke chain on.
Erin, Well said about the choke chains -- I never leave
home without them LOL.
Last year we bought the cottage in the winter time. I
brought one dog with me on the first visit, just to go
there for a few hours. I kept him with me the whole day
and we went for a couple of long walks in the neighborhood.
It was about 2 months before I went back, and at that
time I brought both dogs and we stayed for a week. I got them used to the neighborhood by walking, because that's
how we spend most of our time anyway -- I walk the dogs
as often as I possibly can. But as far as the house, I
just sorta plopped them in it and let them fend for
themselves. They have always been really uncomfortable
when we're there except for one place -- my bed!!! LOL!
But seriously, I went there for my mid-winter visit for
an afternoon and brought them both with me, we took two
one-hour walks that day, but when I went out on errands
I left them in the house and they were crazed when I got
back. I'm really going to try what Cesar posted here
next time I go -- which happens to be Easter weekend!!
Wish me luck!!!
Hey K2
Good Luck!
I took my Wendy girl to our new place alone first. She is the youngest out of my two.
My big boy gets used to places way, way faster than her, so I know I'm going to need less time for him.
I kept the lead on, I just drop it to the floor, and let her explore her heart out. She was very relaxed and back to being herself after about only 1/2 hour. Then, after she seemed to have used her nose as much as she needed, we came back home. She was actually rather tired because this was all so new to her, which took quite a bit of energy! BONUS!
And I never go anywhere without the choke chain on, even if it's for a quick pit stop outside of the house in the yard. I don't have adequate fencing, so better safe than sorry!
Concerning dogs and kicking the grass, here are a few sites that mention this behavior:
A wolf may also rub its lips and neck on a tree or against the ground to mark its territory, and wolves often scrape their paw pads on the ground (usually after they urinate) to mark a territory. This releases odours from the glands in the wolf's paws.
What Are the Functions of the Claw and Footpad?
Dogs perspire through their pads. Pads provide both traction and shock absorption; thick pads absorb more shock and increase endurance, while rough pads allow for better traction for quick turns and effective sprinting. Dogs have scent glands on the bottoms of their feet that allow them leave a mark that can be seen and sensed by other animals.
Hi,
I have a very fun jack Russel terrier Harry, who is very well behaved most of the time, except when he is chasing rabbits or digging up mice. He walks nicely, he is calm when i put his collar on for walks and when i let him run off leash he comes except when he found something smelly to track. Should I just leave him on his leash all the time or just when he doesn't come back when i call on these "tracking" adventures?
I appreciate your help
Trish
This article couldn't come at a better time. I'm getting ready to move to Lubbock, TX from St Louis, MO. I'm not sure how much I will be able to do. I own 3 dogs (Buddy, Booker, Erica), all Pit Bulls.
In 2 weeks we close on the house & then come back to St Louis for our final move, so I won't be able to walk them to the new house! The dogs won't see the house til we arrive there. It will be a 2 day ride for all of us. I won't fly my dogs. I've heard too many bad stories about dogs that have been flown, plus I have house plants that need to be transported.
I hope that the 1 hour walk around the neighborhood won't scare the new neighbors! The neighbor next door lets their Shi-Tzu run loose & there's praire dogs to investigate!
I will let them give the place the once over on their leashes. I think they will adjust fairly quickly when they see how much space they finally will have, to run, sleep, eat & play in. The old place is on a tiny lot, in a trailer park; the house is 1280 sq ft & doesn't have a fence. The new place is on a 1/4 acre lot, the house is 1,920 sq ft & 2/3 of the lot will be fenced. Everything is bigger in Texas!
HI Trish,
Are you planing to train him to track and go to ground? I've seen the competitions and they look like so much fun! You can get a retracktable 25 foot leash at the pet store. Using this type of leash you can train your dog to come when you call. Also you can be more aware of what your Jack Russel is up to. They have been know to bite off more than they can chew.
Erin, You've helped me a number of times with your advice!
Thank you! I'm going to start keeping their chains around
their necks more often. What a great idea! We currently
tie them out on 30-foot leashes in the front yard if we
want them outside because our yard is not fenced in. But
we're fencing in the yard this summer -- I can't wait!!
It will be so much better not to have to tie them up. That
has always bugged me.
I'm also going to do what you did with your dogs when I
arrive at the cottage this weekend. Just leave the leashes
on and let them go with me from room to room until they're
adjusted. What I did last year was tie them out in the
yard (yeah, there too!) and unload the car. What a mistake! And I also did it backwards -- I took the
well-adjusted dog with me that first time, and left the
more neurotic one at home. ARGH!!! It's so great to be
able to share information with everybody here! Thanks again!
When I brought home a dog recently, he would not go upstairs. I think they were strange to him. I went to work the second day that he was here. My husband said that he went upstairs but would not come down. He was scared of falling down them or something. He said that he tried to pull him down and carry him down but he is a 100 pound dog.
I went upstairs and told him to sit and made sure that I was charge. I put a leash on him and sat on the top step and pulled him over to me and told him to sit. Ok so far.
I went down one step at a time taking him with me. After he was about half way down he went by himself. I did not baby him but told him that we were going down stairs.
My hubby was amazed. Apparently the poor thing was up there for about 4 hours and would not come down. I had him down in 3 minutes. He has no trouble since.
Your dog has to trust you. You show him how by taking charge. I learned this from Cesar. Thank you.
Hi Dawn,
My Lab/Coonhound had an awful time with stairs for the
first 6 months of his life. Now, he pulls me down
the stairs, and can even walk up them backwards LOL!!
He got over the fear, but it took a while. I was the only
person who could get him to go down the stairs. He'd
have no trouble going up, just down. Poor things, they
must get so confused with all our human paraphernalia!
PLEASE HELP.....3 YEAR OLD FAMILY PET NEVER BEEN OUTSIDE SINCE 5 WEEKS OLD RAN AWAY FROM MY HUSBAND IN WOODS NOT NEAR OUR HOME...PUT OUT SIGNS IN COUNTRY...SHE IS HIDING IN WOODS NOW FOR OVER 4 WEEKS..WE SIGHTED HER LAST SATURDAY AND SUNDAY GOT TO WITHIN 40 YDS CAN NOT GET HER TO COME TO US...THIS DOG IS OUR BABY...IS SOME HOW STILL ALIVE... WE HAVE PEOPLE ALLL OVER THE COUNTRY COMMUNITY TRYING TO FIND HER...MANY HAVE SEEN HER BUT SHE WILL NOT LET THEM CARCH HER.....HELP US PLEASE
I have a female spayed 5 1/2 month Golden Retriever puppy. There are 3 children in my house (10 yrs, 7yrs, and 2yrs). The issue I have is when I try to correct my
puppy from non agressive biting she escalates the action
and lifts her lips in a snarl at me. She constantly tells me off during this action. I have used several methods to correct her such as holding her mouth shut and telling her no bite (when I feel her calm down and release her mouth she bites again), I have also put my thumb into her mouth under her tongue (same result), I have also grabbed her cheeks and said no (same result, I have substituted my body parts (legs, arms)for a stuffed toy as well. Lastly I have tapped her under her lower jaw and told her no bite (same result but continuing this does stop her eventually). My problem is I have had some people tell me she is nasty and to put her down but I am hoping that that is not the case. Can you advise before there is an unrecoverable issue with my kids? My children are trying to get a handle on her as well but to no advail.
Diane,
I have a 6 mo. old spayed pit bull who trys to "play bite"with me. I can usually redirect her to a chew toy and if not, the things you mentioned did not work for her, seemed to make her more aggressive. She usually does this if I am sitting on the couch so I have been standing up and looking her directly in the eye and saying no, if she jumps up and tries to bite I block her with my raised knee, not pushing her down, but just blocking and not saying anything. She stopped very quickly. Does anyone know if this is an OK thing to do and have any more suggestions.
Diane,
My Lab/Shepherd used to bite like that when he was a puppy
of about the same age as yours, up until about one year
of age. He did not bite hard, but those little
needle-like teeth were sharp! He did it to get my
attention, and I now realize was trying to establish
himself as pack leader. He eventually outgrew it. I gave
him rawhide bones to chew on (supervised always) -- the
old-fashioned white kind that look like bones are the only
ones I "trust" to use -- but that's just my recommendation.
I asked my vet and he said it might have been a teething
thing. But once he got older and was still doing it, I
knew he was trying to establish himself as boss. I would
hold his collar right underneath his chin area and just
hold him steady until he stopped biting. Then I'd make
him lie down in a calm state. At other times, I would
take him for a walk to burn off some energy. I'd recommend
take her for walks (Retrievers are very HIGH-ENERGY dogs!),
then give her something to chew on that will last a while
like an old-fashioned white rawhide bone, and after
you've done both of those, try to get her to lie down
and relax if she is not already. Giving my dogs rawhide
bones that they chew for an hour or two calms them down
immediately (but only AFTER the walk! Remember the rule
Exercise, discipline, affection -- in that order. Food
is considered affection, so even though the chewing on a bone will burn off some energy, you want to do it AFTER
the walk. At 5 1/2 months, she should have enough energy
to need a 45 minute walk, if not more. When my dog was
that age, we were doing two hours a day already!! And
that was just enough to settle him down so I could go to
work (1 hour walk morning) and go to bed (1 hour walk
afternoon/or evening)
Nina,
Several days ago, I shared about a local story where I
live -- I tried to find where it is on this blog page
for the past 15 minutes, but I can't find it anywhere.
Briefly, the dog lived in the woods for 2 years after
having run away from home. It lived in the woods right
near its home, but no one could catch it. A lot of
families were feeding it. It was finally caught using a
very elaborate netting system that all the people chipped
in for. Hopefully you will not have that problem! Do
you have an animal control department in your police
station? I'd start there, if you do. And otherwise keep
leaving food out and maybe the dog will come back to
you. If I'm reading your post correctly, it sounds like
the dog is someplace where you don't live (like maybe
you were on vacation or something?) if you know people
there and can elist their help -- or again the animal
control dept of that community. They really are our "babies!" aren't they? My heart goes out to you.
I'm really enjoying reading everyone's blogs, and the enthusiasm and sincerity is awesome! I havne't seen any episodes on DW that replicate my problem, so hopefully someone here will have a suggestion.
One year ago I adopted a stray Aussie mix that I named Mulligan (I'm giving him a do-over in life!). It took me 5 weeks to gain his trust, and that involved seeking him out to feed him, sitting and 'talking' with him, etc. He finally followed me home one day! at the time I had an older Akita, and they got along just fine. My problem? He will not let ANYONE but me touch him, and he is petrified to get in my SUV.
When I took him to the vet the 1st time (a year ago) he tried to jump out of the window. And he had to be premedicated w/Valium (40mg)before going to the vet. The meds didn't seem to phase him, so I'll not do it again. We muzzled him during the exam, as he would not stop growling. These phobias/fears are issues for me because I cannot leave town! Even if I kept him at home, no one can get close enough to him to put a leash on him for walks. And I also need to get him to the vet again for this year's shots. He just will not get in the car, and he's 90lbs..too big to lift.
On our daily walks (1x2miles, 1x1mile, 1x.5 mile) he is fine with other dogs and people. He'll walk up to them and sniff them, but will bolt if they move their hand. His favorite toy is hte tennis ball, but he ignores it if I try to lure him in the SUV w/it.
Was he possibly thrown out of a car? Could someone have abused him so badly that he trusts no one else? What can I do to help him and me get over these fears???????
"Was he possibly thrown out of a car? Could someone have abused him so badly that he trusts no one else? What can I do to help him and me get over these fears??????? "
If you haven't read Cesar's book yet...GET IT! He discusses this sort of problem. Basically what your dog needs is strong leadership and most likely what are called "swamping" sessions...but those are NOT something an inexperienced trainer should attempt, especially with such a large dog.
There are slower techniques that might or might not work, but are easier to learn and apply. This is the sort of dog that *I* feel can be greatly helped by TRUE clicker training. Not the sort of "click and treat" training that seems so popular these days.
For the kind of clicker training you need, it would help greatly if you get a good book on the subject. Basically, what you do is get 25 to 30 tiny pieces of something really tasty the dog likes - like hot dogs. Before you feed him, when he's hungry, you give him a treat and the INSTANT he takes it you click. You don't say anything, you don't touch him, you just treat/click.
You do this for 3 or 4 days, or until you are certain he has the association of "click means treat". This is typical "Pavlovian" association training.
Once he has that association down you can use the clicker as a SUBSTITUTE for the treat - since he probably won't eat anyway if he's that fearful.
Now is when you need a LOT, a L*O*T of patience. Put your dog on a leash that is about 10 or 12 feet long. A piece of rope is fine, it doesn't have to be a special leash.
Go open the back doors of your vehicle, both of them, and crawl in and sit on the far side from where your dog is standing, reeling out the leash of course, so you still have control of him.
Then you WATCH HIM and everytime he even LOOKS at you you click. Don't talk to him, don't pull on the lead. Just watch and click. If he takes even a half-step towards you, click. If he lies down and goes to sleep, click! (because he's calm enought to relax)
As long as he is calm and not actively trying to leave he is learning. You click to "reward" ANY sort of movement forward towards the car.
If you can't get him close enough to the car at first to get in it, then just begin by YOU standing as close as he will let you get without him panicing and then proceed to reward, by clicking, any forward movement.
You must be really patient with him, don't try to do this when you are in a hurry. DON'T TALK TO HIM! Basically, you are giving him the opportunity to sort it out on his own terms, but with encouragment for advancing forward.
You do have to keep him "on his toes" about the reward/click association. A couple of times a week, repeat the food/click scenario...but you only need to use maybe 5 to 10 rewards, just to keep the association fresh in his mind.
A good book on PROPER clicker training can explain it much better, but that's the bottom-line basics. This kind of clicker training works especially well for training animals like dolphins & whales, because, essentially, you can't effectivley use a correction on an animal that can weigh several TONS! And it also works well on animals like yours that are so fearful they shut down.
A clicker is a short, sharp sound that "gets through" that sort of shut down when another sound...like your voice...may not. And you can use it to "reward" steps towards the behavior you want.
And for the arm movement avoidance, you use the same technique but you have the dog close to you and an assistant at a distance. A long distance if necessary, but close enough that the dog can seem them.
Have them make a noise, just sound, not a word, that will get your dog's attention. When he is looking at them they wave their arm. YOU watch the dog and if he is calm, you click.
Have the person take a step closer and repeat. Keep doing that until the dog shows signs of being uneasy at which point you, of course, DON'T click...and have the person back up a step or two and repeat the wave. If the dog accepts that calmly, you click and end the session.
Keep repeating the sesssions, but have the person stand closer each time at the beginning. Your goal is to get the dog to accept arm waving from very close. Once you have achieved that you can use the same techniques to get him to accept having a hand reach out.
At home, you need to get other members of your family to NOT REACH FOR HIM, but simply sit down, turn their back on him and let HIM approach them. Same technique...you watch HIM and if he moves towards them you click.
This is NOT fast training technique, though if you are patient and successful, you might find a "cascade" of breakthroughs come his way as his barriers break down.
I recently got my first puppy! He's a real sweet Chihuahua named Cujo. He's about 8 months old and I just started obedience training with him, But I'm moving out of my parents house this summer and I'm nervouse about how the changes will effect him. I'm not so nervouse about the fact that its a new place I'm more scared about the zoo I'm bringing him into.
I'm moving in with two friends, one girl who has a kitten (peso pete), and another girl who has a very big mix breed puppy (Captain) who is about two years old, has had no training, can be a little agressive . It doesnt help that Cujo isn't very friendly towards other dogs.
I know there must be something I can do to defuse the sittuation. The dogs have met, and it hasn't been very nice between them. I don't know what to do to get them to be friendly and realize that they have to be members of our little motley pack.
-Gretchen
hey i jenny and i love a boy called Zach he is soooo cut we have a lot in coment ill tell u now!. well........ we bothe have dogs but Zach has 2 snowdogs and i have 1 colli lurcher cross! kk I lOvE dOgS!]
(M)
When one contrasts the final result of the lab not wanting to walk on the wooden floors vs the other dog(great dane? I forget) afraid to walk on linoleum after a fall, by the end of the episode, the dane was fine and dandy walking on a slick floor, but the lab was still very tentative and cautious, which left me with one unanswered question.
Did anyone bother to take the lab to a vet and have his hips evaluated? A 4-year-old should not look like an old dog walking across a slick floor, yet that is what this dog reminded me of, until I rewound it and saw the age.
Hip dysplasia is common in many large breeds and comes in many degrees of severity. A dog might be unable to walk at 6 months, or might simply get early arthritis. When our lab, who died at age 14, started getting arthritis, he became very cautious of all non-carpeted floors, since a slight slip would cause him hip discomfort. He didn't cry out, he didn't limp, he just walked very cautiously and slowly. Like that chocolate lab.
IF the dog had bad hips, it might change the approach. For instance, the owners could get those clear rubbery runners to place in the kitchen and hall, so the dog would have traction, yet they could still see the wooden floor. It would also keep the dog's nails from scratching the floors.
I don't know if the issue of hip joint integrity was evaluated or not, but just raise the question, because of the dog's reaction and manner of walking.
wow! i consider myself (and my two oldest dogs) lucky! never had this problem (the third is a recently-acquired pom from a nice guy who just didn't have time for the dog...and this li'l guy's a whole 'nother story).
got the first when she was six-eight weeks old (born 1998). got the second exactly six weeks after her birthday (1 january 2000). they've gone from rental to bought-house to alaska to three states when i worked as a travel-nurse to back home. this doesn't count the many motels we stayed in along the way.
maybe because i'd gotten them so young and started right away on the most simple of commands ("sit;" "down;" "leave it"), and treated all this moving about as par for the course, they followed my lead. or maybe they're just "on-the-road" kind of pups!
I recently adopted a lab mix 6-9 mth old puppy from a shelter. He strives to please me, but being that he came from an abusive home prior, i'm having a hard time getting him to not be so timid. Could you please inform me as to which books would help me help him, or give me some ideas. He is so sweet and is a great little boy. Our family looks forward to building a great friendship with Cosmo. Thank You for your time.
Sincerely,
Karen
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