The Festival of Colors
By Paul Nelson
PD, The Girl Who Cries Blood
Premieres Sunday September 13 9P et/pt
A gentle rocking motion wakes me up. Immediately, I'm aware that my feet are hanging over the end of a 6 foot foam padded vinyl surface and there's an awful stench emanating from the next compartment. The nauseating smell of excrement and urine is mixed with the odour of about seventeen packed lunch and dinner boxes stacked around me. These were prepared by our hotel nearly twenty hours ago and even then they didn't smell particularly appetising. Why would anyone put French fries in a cold packed lunch box?
It takes me a moment to remember that I'm on a sleeper train in India called the Haridwar Express. It's a bit of a misnomer. The train is making achingly slow progress to the city from which it takes its name; and I've been reliably informed that making the same journey by road would have had us at our destination five hours ago. Nevertheless, I'm glad I here. Travelling on India's famous railways is really not an event not to be missed and is surprisingly comfortable - so long as you're prepared to pay a few extra rupees for an AC carriage.
We began our journey five hundred kilometres south east in the City of Lucknow and now some fifteen hours later we're approaching one of India's most famous cities.
In Hindi, the name Haridwar stands for Gateway to God. Built on the banks of the sacred Ganges the city is one of the seven holiest sites in Hinduism and one of the four centres that hosts the festival called the Kumb Mela. The event is the religious equivalent of the Olympics. Once every four years multiples of millions of devout Hindus descent on Haridwar to bathe in the Ganges. Though we're not in a Kumb Mela year we're travelling to the city to film Twinkle (The Girl Who Cries Blood) observing the ritual and bathing in the river in an attempt to rid herself of the 'Restless souls' that a Mystic claims are 'boiling her blood'. It'll be a key cultural sequence in the documentary and the first time she's ever seen the Ganges let alone bathed in it.
We've timed our arrival to coincide with the first full moon of Phalgun - the last month of the Hindu Calendar. It's an auspicious day. It marks the beginning of Spring and the start of Holi - a religious hoilday popular in India called the 'Festival of Colors'.
Tradition has it that people throw brightly colored powders over each other, eat plenty of sweets and generally go a bit wild in the streets. Apart from being great fun to witness, Holi should provide lots of colorful footage for the film.

I'm not wrong. We arrive in the city as celebrations are in full swing. Children are going particularly mad and it seems everyone and everything is covered in the red, blue, pink, green, purple and yellow powder called Gulal that's being freely tossed about. There are a few tense moments when buckets of water, water bombs and packets of powder are thrown at us (the crew) in the rickshaw - but luckily the camera kit escapes relatively unscathed.
It's a shame the same can't be said of me. I'm cornered by a gang hugged, back-slapped and dowsed. Holi is an unforgettable experience - even if you wanted to. The dye is all but impossible to wash off. Much to the amusement of everyone in the crew (and Twinkle) I, Mr. Director-Ji was bright shade of pink for the rest of the week.
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